Composting and Compost
By: Roxanne DiRaimondo
Everyone knows that composting is beneficial for the environment and for your garden. Although compost is not a fertilizer, it does contain plant nutrients that are essential for plant growth. But you can’t just throw anything into a pile in your backyard and figure it is good for compost. There are definite “dos” and “don’ts” when it comes to having a successful compost pile that will result in producing compost to help you achieve the best results in your gardening efforts.
Photo: Two compost bins and a pitchfork to help stir the compost every week or so.
Where to Start a Compost Pile
Before you even begin a compost pile, you must decide where it will be located in your yard. These are things to consider when selecting the placement of your compost pile:
· A level spot: This reduces the chance of water and runoff leaching nutrients from the compost.
· A spot near the garden or where the raw material is generated, and the compost will be used.
· A spot screened from your property or neighbor’s property; you don’t want an unsightly mess.
· An area away from wooden buildings to avoid attracting termites.
· An area away from trees and shrubs that will send their roots into the compost pile.
· A location near a source of water.
· An area with good drainage; away from wells.
· A spot where there is enough room to turn the pile/bin and store finished compost.
· An area preferably in shade to avoid drying out. (If you must put it in the sun, you will have to water more frequently.)
Containing your Compost
You can’t just toss compost into a loose, untidy pile on your property. The compost has to be contained so it can be controlled, maintained, and turned on a regular basis, and not become a sprawling mess and attraction for animals and insects to invade your yard.
To do this, you will need some type of enclosure(s) or bin(s). The best size for a compost pile or bin is about 3- foot square. Bigger piles are harder to turn and can become anaerobic (airless) in the middle.
You can build your own compost enclosure or buy a pre-made composting bin.
If you build your own enclosure, a common set-up is a three-section composting system. The first section or “bin” holds compost that is actively working. The second section or “bin” holds compost close to completion, and the third is used to finish and store compost before it is put in the garden. But there are other designs applicable for home-made enclosures as well, including single “bins,” double “bins” and other set-ups, depending upon your requirements. With most homemade enclosures you will have to regularly turn the pile using a tool such as a pitchfork, although you can build a homemade container that turns or tumbles using a 55-gallon plastic container.
If you decide to go with pre-made bins, there are many types of bins available from simple to quite advanced, with one section or multiple sections; some even have filters. Many pre-made bins also can be turned or tumbled, which eliminates the job of the pitchfork. Since there are several styles and designs of these pre-made composting bins on the market, deciding whether to buy them and what type to buy will ultimately depend on your needs and your budget.
What Should Go into Compost?
Compost needs to be generated from organic materials, but not all organic materials should be incorporated.
A good way to start is by using the leaves you rake up in the fall and adding other organics as the year goes by. Almost any plant material can be composted – sod, grass clippings, garden trimmings, hedge clippings, hay and straw. However, it is best to avoid adding weeds. While weeds do decompose, some could be transferred to the garden when you add the compost to the soil.
Additional organic materials that can be added to compost include such things as sawdust, shredded newspaper, cardboard, manure, unused potting soil, hair, and kitchen scraps – but not everything from the kitchen. Things to avoid from the kitchen are grease, fat, oil, fish, meat, and dairy products.
The idea behind all of this is that you need a balance or of what are called “Browns” and “Greens” to create an effective compost. “Browns” are the ingredients like leaves, straw, paper, sawdust, etc., and they are rich in Carbon(C). They decay slowly and help keep a compost pile aerated. “Greens” are the ingredients like vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, grass clippings and manure (cow, horse poultry or hog manure; NEVER dog or cat waste), and they are rich in Nitrogen(N). They decay quickly, and don’t really add to aeration.
The ideal balance of a Carbon to Nitrogen in a compost pile is referred to as the C:N ratio. The acceptable numbers for the C:N ratio are somewhere between 25:1 to 40:1 – with 30:1 being ideal. Finished compost has a Carbon to Nitrogen ratio of 20-25:1.
Air and Water
Every compost pile needs air and water to work. Turning the compost helps provide the air. It is best to turn the pile every 5 to 7 days. When you turn it, move the outer material to the center and add water if needed. Active composting occurs in pile temperatures of 55-155 degrees. Above 140 degrees, decomposition slows down until the temperature lessens. In general, higher pile temperatures accelerate composting, kill disease causing organisms and kill weed seeds. If the pile is not heating up enough, the causes could be too little or too much water, or too many “Browns” in the mix. If you want to be sure of the temperature of your compost, you can buy a thermometer to help check it.
As far as water goes, the compost pile water content should be at 40-50%. If the compost gets too dry, bacterial activity will slow down or may stop altogether. If it gets too wet, the pile may lose air flow and become anaerobic, and no longer be able to actively decompose. A rule of thumb is to keep the pile the consistency of a “squeezed out sponge.” If you notice it getting too dry, add water as you turn the pile. If you think the pile has gotten too wet, you can add “Browns” and turn the pile.
Finished Compost
How do you know when your compost is finished and ready to go into the garden? Well, there are several indicators. The color is dark brown; it is crumbly, loose, and humus-like; it has an earthy smell; it contains no readily recognizable ingredients; the pile has shrunk to about 1/3 of its original volume.
Finished compost can be used in so many ways: incorporated into the garden soil, used as surface mulch in the garden or landscape; as lawn topdressing or even in potting mix. If you incorporate it into the soil, spread a ½-1-inch uniform layer over the entire surface. If you use it as mulch, be sure to keep the depth at no more than 3”. If you use it in potting mix, no more than ½ of the mix should be compost.
Compost Pile Problems
Sometimes animal pests are attracted to compost piles. This may be due to the presence of meats and fatty foods in the compost pile. Remove these items from your compost, if possible. Also, make sure your compost enclosure/bin is animal proof: i.e., covered tightly, wire mesh to prevent entry from bottom, top or sides; and cannot be opened by racoons or entered by skunks, rodents, insects.
If your compost pile has a bad odor, and it is a putrid smell or the smell of rotten eggs, this is usually the result of anaerobic conditions (the pile is not getting enough air.) The pile may be too wet or contain the undesirable kitchen scraps mentioned above. Try turning the pile to dry it out and add air and add “Browns” to cover the kitchen scraps, which will also help with aeration.
Another possible odor coming from compost might be the odor of ammonia. The cause of this may be too many nitrogen-rich “Greens.” You can add carbon-rich “Browns” to balance it out.
Rewards
Maintaining a compost pile may require some effort on your part, especially when you first begin, but you’ll be rewarded with all of your composting efforts when your garden is thriving and healthy thanks to all of your hard work throughout the year! Happy composting!
